MD17C in A25

[WillieC]

Yanked the trailer out today. See new post.

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Now the real work begins.

[WillieC]

IF:

1. It only leaks a little, only when in the water, and
2. It came out in one (actually three, as designed) pieces unbroken, and
3. It only took a half hour once I got serious about removing it, and without too much cussing,

Is it possible that no 5200 was involved but only the reel guud tub and shower caulk, and not the cheap crap for sealing the kitchen sink?

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Would have preferred leaving it in but this thing had evidence of major band aid repairs. Now I get to learn how to patch a hole. Lots of info out there, but any real secrets?

[Beta Don]

Maybe it was original to the boat?? Had 3M 5200 even been invented in 1975??

From the outside, bevel the hole to at least 50% of the thickness of the hull. Bevel the inside the remaining 50%. You should have a pretty sharp edge all the way around what's left of the hole at that point. The bevels should be 45 degrees of less and the outside diameter of the bevel will be nearly twice as big as the actual hole

Tape over the hole from the outside with several layers of masking tape - You'll fill the inside half of the hole first and come back and do the outside later. Cut half a dozen circles of fiberglass matting, the smallest circle just a little larger than the hole and each successive layer a little larger than the last. Using epoxy resin, put all the layers inside the hole one at a time, wetting out everything well

I use many thin layers of matting because they are easiest to wet out. You might have 10 or 12 layers of matting on both the inside and the outside by the time everything is filled in, depending on how thick your hull is. You can buy a bag of matting at WalMart in the automotive department for less than $10 - There was plenty of it in the bag for our bow thruster install and we still had some left over. I always use epoxy resin and not polyester because you have more working time and because epoxy sticks better to old fiberglass than polyester

After the inside sets up, remove the tape from the outside, scuff sand the patch and do the same thing on the outside you did on the inside - Several layers of mat, each a little larger than the last one until you've filled in the bevel and it's a little thicker than the hull. Sand and fair the outside. Go back and add more layers to the inside if it's not yet flush. When it is even with the hull on the inside, sand it well and add 2 or 3 more layers about 4 or 5 inches square over the top of the patch. That will be the thickest (and strongest) part of the hull

Actually easier to do than it sounds

Don

[WillieC]

Would it be heretical to simply install a through hull and cap it on the inside for 1/3 the cost and zero the effort and inhaled fiberglass dust? This is a rhetorical question, something I would never consider, given my penchant for self-flagellation. Maybe some of YOU PEOPLE might do this, just so you could move on with your sorry little lives and get your boat back in the water, cheater! (would you?)

[Beta Don]

I don't know - Whenever I have the chance to reduce the number of holes below the waterline (and the boat is already out of the water) I tend to jump at it. Since you have zero cost for a haul out and you're about ready to do a bottom job and the materials won't cost you more than $25 or so (actually less than a good thru hull) I would certainly put forth the effort to permanently seal the hole . . . . wouldn't you?

Another plus - You'll go about .0015 knots faster and use probably 25 cents less fuel each season!

Don

[WillieC]

A quart of West systems epoxy...
A quart of catalyst...
Pump set or scale or 50 years of eyeball that looks about right experience...
$10 of glass mat...
Flap grinder or plain old disk
Acetone, not recommended, or "approved" dewaxer, cleaner
Cheap-o brushes

Around $30 for 3/4 thru hull and cap. 85-5-5-5 bronze.
Sikaflex 219 (I think that is the right number.)

Granted, I have some of this stuff, but not the glass components.

I am with you, Fewer holes, better odds, but the fatigue factor is setting in and I have some serious scraping to do.

I guess what I am saying is if it were closer to even money, of course it makes sense to patch, but this is closer to a Benjamin. Not counting effort involved.

[Sunsetrider]

I'm with you Willie, and that is what my yard did when a now-unused inlet for a sea-water tap began to let water in.

[WillieC]

Movin' on up..shamelessly stolen from dkirsop.

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Details, details. Having to move the engine forward 1-1/2" just adds to the sack of woe, what with the chopped corner of the doghouse for the step down to the parlour. It's going to be tight. Aacckk!

Does it work? Did a test firing today. The engine has sat unmolested for a couple weeks now, and it is a little bit warmer than it was previously, low 40s. I energized the glowplugs for 15 Mississippis, walked around to the key and cranked it. I touched the throttle knowing that I shouldn't have and it stalled. Redid the 15 count and cranked again, with the cold start device also activated. I let it crank until it was firing on all three and off she went! Hard to tell if the situation has improved, but it started on second attempt, so I call that progress. Battery was charged and left similarly untouched for the last few weeks. It read 12.8v on the Fluke. The other battery after a more recent charge was at 13.0. Plenty of cranking oomph at 12.8 after the added draw of 42A for 30ish seconds. Subsequent starts today while warm were like normal. At no time did I use the compression relief levers.

I am calling this good and will install a starter relay and final wiring with a push button in the helm for the relay. Need to consider curious grandchildren for the location of this switch. There is an unused position and pole on the key switch, but wish it were momentary and to the left. One can wish.

[dkirsop]

Very cool and very well done. Maybe we have started something here! Fingers and toes crossed hoping the engine cover fits!

[WillieC]

Update:

Engine is back in with the help of curious neighbors who have been kinder than I ever could have imagined. I used Don's suggestion of a come-along to haul that 650 pound hunk of iron back up the ramp. I also raised the ramp closer to level intending to just pinch it back into the boat when one of these dear neighbors offered the use of his come-along. Read my mind.

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I knew it was going to be close on the front end, so I cut out the back of the pantry closet down low so I would have easier access for the starter, belts and water pump. Glad I did. Still need to trim some more fiberglass, but that will be easy.

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I reinstalled with the same shims I had under the MD3B and crossed my fingers. Since the engine is now 1-1/2" farther forward, I wasn't sure what that geometry would do to shaft alignment. I am extremely pleased with the alignment, needing only a little tweaking.

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New prop is due this week so I have a lot to do before splashing it. Hope to make Memorial Day. Ha!

[Beta Don]

Nice job!!

I think your glow plugs will make all the difference in the fall and winter when you really need some help to get it running. Good investment

Don

[Sunsetrider]

Congrats Willie! Waiting to hear the rest of saga.

[dkirsop]

Nicely done! Maybe we will cross paths one day going either north or south.

[WillieC]

I certainly hope so, dkirsop!

[DesertAlbin736]

Wow, what a job! Hats off to you! You make MacGyver look like a rank amateur! But why such a tight fit on the front end? I thought MD17C engines were supposed to be OEM on later A25 Deluxe model years? Those Volvo engines... they look so odd with the big flywheel on the front end & the starter ring gear exposed. 650 lbs?!?! That is one heavy hunk of iron for sure, and quite an accomplishment to manhandle into the boat from the back of a pickup truck using jury rigged timbers and a come-along. Fraught with danger no doubt, one slip and....don't want to think about it! Bet you're glad that's over with. For comparison our Yanmar is 360 lbs, and a Beta 35 would be around 370, not counting fluids.

Memorial Day is only a week away from today. Will you make it? I hope so! We're all rooting for you, the conclusion of a saga almost a year in the making with 9 pages and 135 posts and replies. Once back in the water and in commission you could set your sights on the PNW rendezvous at Bell Harbor Marina in July (see dkircher's post on the rendezvous forum) where all will ooh and ahh when they see your boat. Either way it calls for popping the cork on a bottle of bubbly to celebrate. Hope to see you next year if/when God willing we can get back up there again.