Modifications, repairs and improvements, 28TE

[Tree]

Same here - ideally need to replace all of them as occasionally one will get hot due to the corrosion inside. They clean up and work fine for a while before the corrosion sets in again. I did look at swapping the fuse holders out entirely but with them being soldered to the busbar and the cabling being tight it’ll be a bit of a faff where as the caps alone replaced will do just the job.

[Norseman]

New stereo today: A Fusion MS-RA70NSX.
Night and day difference in sound even after I kept the old speakers.
The actual installation was easy, but pain in rear to crimp in all new connectors for the wiring harness while working inside the tiny hanging locker.

Glad I bought this system, made it a bit easier than the old “Squeeze until you are blue in the face and hope you made a good connection”

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Happy with the stereo and easy to use BT app and controls.

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[Norseman]

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[LillianpFD]

The chart table light is next to be replaced.
Looking for a similar, but LED and hopefully more or less the same foot print. (Hate drilling holes in perfectly good gelcoat and fiberglass.)
Any ideas?

Decided on an Aqua Signal white/red chart table light.
It fits the foot print somewhat. The base has a 3 hole pattern, I was able to use one previous screw hole, but had to drill 2 more holes.

Thanks Norseman! was looking for a replacement for my chart light!

[Norseman]

The chart table light is next to be replaced.
Looking for a similar, but LED and hopefully more or less the same foot print. (Hate drilling holes in perfectly good gelcoat and fiberglass.)
Any ideas?

Decided on an Aqua Signal white/red chart table light.
It fits the foot print somewhat. The base has a 3 hole pattern, I was able to use one previous screw hole, but had to drill 2 more holes.

Thanks Norseman! was looking for a replacement for my chart light!

Glad to help, used the the light 2 days ago while anchored at night:
Turned on the white side, shone out the front windshield and voila, here is another anchor light for safety and being LED, hardly any current draw.
(Busy South Florida with drunk and high boaters we usually display 2-3 white anchor lights, if in really busy areas, we have 4 total. )

[Norseman]

Time for a haulout again, it has been 27 months in the water since last bottom paint: The Trinidad Pro blue has been holding up good, but also had a diver scrape and scrub every 60 days the last 18 months.
(Average cost $70, times 9 dives, $630 to avoid hauling out once a year, perhaps a toss. )

Hull looks good, overall, but need to address a few minor things.

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[Norseman]

Work is coming along good.
Oil and prop change for the Vetus bow thruster:
Old oil was black and smelly, my car still smells bad hours after I disposed of the oil.
The fiber washers for the drain plug is no more available from Vetus, picked up a couple of rubber washers from a hardware store, I may use 1 or both.

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New prop, model # 0089 if your thruster is made before 1989, 0088 if after.
(My boat is a 2001, but with a pre 1998 thruster, the difference is shaft size, 13,7 mm or 12,2 mm)

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Also new prop, slightly different pitch, balanced and coated with prop speed,

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Will also use Prop Speed on rudder and trim tabs.

[Norseman]

Old prop 8 weeks after a diver cleaned prop and bottom.
Not bad, will cleanup and balance, then use for a spare.

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[Norseman]

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Old Vetus prop.

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[Bluewater]

Helpful stuff Norseman. Thanks. I need to do the same with my bow thruster at next haul out. I’m a little tee’d off that your diver clean is $70. I also do mine every 2 months but it costs $75 - SWFL is supposed to be cheaper than Ft Lauderdale!
Can I ask how much the haul and bottom paint is costIng? I also need to bottom paint.

[Norseman]

Helpful stuff Norseman. Thanks. I need to do the same with my bow thruster at next haul out. I’m a little tee’d off that your diver clean is $70. I also do mine every 2 months but it costs $75 - SWFL is supposed to be cheaper than Ft Lauderdale!
Can I ask how much the haul and bottom paint is costIng? I also need to bottom paint.

Ha, my diver charges $65, but I give him a tip, so $75 or $70.
Haul, prep, launch and 2 coats Trinidad is $1,400. Prop Speed on rudder
and tabs, $450. Wash and wax $250.
Total $2,100 plus taxes, plus extras such as removing and installation of prop, etc.
Had 3 estimates, one was more than double.

[Bluewater]

Really helpful - thanks

[Norseman]

Old zincs lasted 7.5 months.

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New anodes are aluminum

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Hoping to splash Monday or Tuesday but heavy rains every day, could get a weather delay. $26.6 a day is not bad, good for the bottom to dry out also.
Will mount the props after application of bottom paint and prop-speed coating on rudder and trim tabs.
Considering adding small anodes on the swim platform 1” support tubes, (I believe it was recommended here on this forum) but have not seen any signs of corrosion yet. Who has done it?

[Tunateaser]

BE0281E7-123B-43FC-A8DA-F82837B4E315.jpeg33 lbs Rocna anchor on the bow and aluminum poles in the back for the Bimini top. (Should be done next week, the canvas girl took off Thanksgiving weekend)

Wondering where you got the poles for the top. Did you make them? Also what do you do on the other side? Short poles with spikes? My wife wants me to buy a sure shade
for our 31TE. I've been telling her all we need is a few poles and a nice canvas. I made two rod holder supports for to lay down my out riggers for bridges. They work great.

[Norseman]

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Wondering where you got the poles for the top. Did you make them?

Had them made at a metal shop, then powder coated.

Not sure what you mean on the other side?
Forward part of the canvas is mounted on a track attached to the aft part of the hard top.

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