Modifications, repairs and improvements, 28TE

[Nancy]

The seats look good. Why do you want new ones? We had our cushions re-made.

Here's the sample before and after from our boat.

helm chair supports-1-021913-800.JPG

[Norseman]

That looks familiar, what stuff did you use to polish the metal?

Bigger and more comfy seats are somewhere on the wish list. For now we are in good shape, doing only short voyages, but that could change in the future. Not high on the list but we will see later this year..

[Norseman]

The chart table light is next to be replaced.
Looking for a similar, but LED and hopefully more or less the same foot print. (Hate drilling holes in perfectly good gelcoat and fiberglass.)
Any ideas?

[Nancy]

That looks familiar, what stuff did you use to polish the metal?

I believe we used Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. That was after sanding and taking off quite a bit of material.

[Norseman]

That looks familiar, what stuff did you use to polish the metal?

I believe we used Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. That was after sanding and taking off quite a bit of material.

Aha, so your metal had pitting and corrosion too?
Wondered if the aluminum was raw rather than anodized.

[Nancy]

I think it's anodized, but obviously not corrosion-proof in a saltwater environment.

[Sisu22]

Here is how our seats are mounted. I'd like to allow them to swivel.

IMG_2232.jpg

[Norseman]

Is the warm white/yellow courtesy lights standard equipment from the factory?
They appear to be LEDs, but not 100% sure. Pulled one out and found the Hella logo in the back and “ Made in New Zealand”.
1 in the cockpit area and 2 down below:

[Norseman]

The chart table light is next to be replaced.
Looking for a similar, but LED and hopefully more or less the same foot print. (Hate drilling holes in perfectly good gelcoat and fiberglass.)
Any ideas?

Decided on an Aqua Signal white/red chart table light.
It fits the foot print somewhat. The base has a 3 hole pattern, I was able to use one previous screw hole, but had to drill 2 more holes.

[Norseman]

New Seadek bolsters today, finally. Matching colors with bimini top and faux teak deck.

[Norseman]

Water tank gauge installed, with a momentary push button like the 2 Volt gauges above.
Also relocated the build placard, it nicely cover up 14 screw holes from previous equipment that was removed. (No idea what was there)

[Norseman]

Sender unit on water tank.
It is 10” long and made by KUS, like the gauge.
KUS merged with or bought WEMA,. (Good products, used them in the past)
Easy install, but the tank was a tough cookie to drill trough, hard plastic and will probably survive a nuclear attack:)
Gauge and sender was about $68.00, KUS has a Warehouse close to Fort Lauderdale, but no showroom or store front, they let let you in at the loading ramp at the warehouse and sell pieces on the spot.
Next project is a new fuel tank gauge and sender. The original Tempo gauge and sende is way off and not to be thrusted.
Doing my fuel calculations based on the FloScan for now.

[Norseman]

Collecting water in forward bilge:
After the forward bilge pump ran in automatic and in manual mode, I could still pump 6 gallons in a pale using my “pump-on-a-stick”.
Granted, Odin is bow heavy, big anchor and 105’ chain as well as short of 85 gallons diesel from a full tank. Odin is also listing slightly to Starboard as the water tank is empty.
Is water in the bow a common trait for motorbox Albin 28TEs?

[Pitou]

The forward bilge forward to the dinette is the lowest point. When at rest, any water in the bilge will collect at this point. Some members had added a bilge pump in this location as a solution. Myself, when underway I would manual switch the stern bilge pump on to evacuate the forward bilge water that would flow backward with bow rise. The true fix of an additional pump was always on the list, but never percolated to the top.

[Norseman]

The forward bilge forward to the dinette is the lowest point. When at rest, any water in the bilge will collect at this point. Some members had added a bilge pump in this location as a solution. Myself, when underway I would manual switch the stern bilge pump on to evacuate the forward bilge water that would flow backward with bow rise. The true fix of an additional pump was always on the list, but never percolated to the top.

The forward bilge has an automatic bilge pump with a manual override, just like the middle and aft bilge.
Is a forward pump not standard from the factory?
I keep getting another 6 gallons AFTER the forward pump has done it duty, first in auto, then in manual: Still 6 gallons left.
Considering adding a “sump-pump” to suck up every last drop and also considering a cover for the coaming rod holders, that is probably where rhe water is coming in. (I like my bilges dusty )