Windlass Replacement

[boatruptcy]

Changing out my Lewmar pro sport for the same model and trying to get access to the three threaded rods that hold the windlass to the pulpit. Surely you don't have to remove the entire pulpit to do this? I was thinking of taking a hole saw or dremel and widening the hole at the bottom of the windlass (in the anchor locker) to reach the bolts, any other ideas before I begin cutting? The pictures are looking up from inside the anchor locker, the one round hole is where the chain drops in but not large enough to access the threaded rods. The bolts on the outside of the hull are what secures the pulpit (they appear to be carriage and you can see the heads on the picture taken with the windlass). Thanks.

[RobS]

The prior owner / installer must have pulled the pulpit to install the windlass which also appears evident by the appearance of the caulking at the joint of the rear section of the pulpit to the bow deck. Since it's been off once before it might be easy enough to do again and this way you can be sure all is right. Here's a pic of one removed. Otherwise your method to gain access seems to be the only "plan B"

[boatruptcy]

Thank you! I'll probably just widen my hole then, can't see any real harm in doing that rather than pulling the entire pulpit.

[Tree]

I’ve seen a pulpit break off due to a fouled anchor and rough sea. Is it not worth getting the holes filled and moving the windlass back on to the foredeck as the construction of the pulpit isn’t the strongest?

[boatruptcy]

I don't see how you could move it any further back without sending your rode into the cabin. I'm not personally willing to go to all that effort since I can't foresee myself in that situation.

[RobS]

It has to stay in the same location to be over the anchor locker. But I would recommend long threaded rods going through the pulpit and then through the molded deck pocket where the pulpit is sitting, this way it's all reinforced together. Otherwise you are relying on the strength of the pulpit to deck connection with just a few fender washers. That connection could certainly be compromised at this stage of her life...

[DCatSea]

I remember replacing a windlass on a friend's boat some years ago. We cut a water sealed oak backing plate to bolt up under the fore deck, just to be on the safe side.

[Russell]

I second Rob's suggestion as it would be stronger and make it much easier to exchange the windlass the next time. I removed the pulpit on my 1997 model to get to the nuts inside the space and put it back the same way. When I needed to replace the windlass on my 2005 model I remembered what a big job it was on the 97 and dreaded it. But to my surprise they used longer bolts that went all the way through to the locker and it was very easy to replace. I guess they bolted the windlass onto the pulpit before installing the pulpit, making their job a little easier but creating a big problem down the line.

[boatruptcy]

Not sure through bolting will add any more strength than the four 1/2" carriage bolts and whatever amount of sealant that's globbed around the entire pulpit from previous owner, but I'm all for overkill. Those mounting bolts on the Lewmar are small as well and that little windlass doesn't have enough ass to tear itself off.

[kowal_53]

My 31 had 3 long bolts that went all the way through when I went to replace mine a couple of years ago. You can get to all of them through the anchor lid hatches up front. Cleaned everything up, place the old bolts on the new one (or it came with new ones just can't remember) Placed the windless in place for fit, removed it again for the silicone, and tightened it down. I snugged the nuts just a bit 24 hours later. Wired it up and I was done.

[boatruptcy]

I opened up the hole a little bit, enough room to get my hand inside and loosen the nuts. It had a 1" blocking plate for all three bolts, swapped it out in a few minutes, works great now.