What windlass on your 28TE

[Elizabeth Ann]

Hi all,

I apologize in advance for a long post.

Well I'm heading up North for 2 weeks in July and I have some bugs I need to exterminate.

First on my list is the windlass. I am pretty sure I have the Lewmar 600. I am a little confused b/c the manual says 600/600H/900 I believe, with no real sure way of telling them apart. When we first picked up the boat I started having trouble with it. The chain kept on slipping out and fouling the gypsy. I quickly did some research, took note of my gypsy wheel number, cut off 4 links of the chain that was attached to the anchor and rode, and went to see a long time friend at West Marine.

So I find out the guy was using Hi-Tensile chain (HT on the link), which is normally used in windlasses. However, I also found out that for some reason my windlas (or perhaps the gypsy) is different and I need Triple B chain (3B on the link). Not only did the boat come with the wrong chain, but the anchor line that was about 1/2" too big for the gypsy.

OK, after getting pissed off slightly, I pony up the $400 for new rode and chain (200' and 25' respectively). I have my sailor neigbor, taper back splice the rode to the chain. I installed the new set up and only used it a few times (anchored).

I've noticed a few things:

1) The rode sometimes gets 'caught up' in the gypsy and doesn't release when we are retrieving. To alleviate this I often had had to send someone forward to watch it and sometimes the'd have to pull it free from in the locker. I am 100% certain the rode is the correct size for the gypsy wheel, so some people suggest that since my rode is new it just has to get salted up and toughened out, this way it won't jam. Oh, I power up on the anchor too, I don't let the little windlass pull a 10,000 lb boat.

2) The line in the locker tends to tangle up on me. Upon deploying the anchor on two separate occasions, I would be paying it out when all of a sudden it stops b/c below in the locker a huge knot/tangle is in the line and it can't pass through the deck.

3) The manual says never to hang on the windlass, to tie the rode to a cleat or post. Are any of you doing this. It seems to be a PITA to send some one forward to pay out additional line and have them tie it off to starboard or port side cleat. I'm thinking of installing a sampson post.

4) Since I all ready power up on the windlass during retrieval I wondered if I should approach the anchor from the up wind side rather than down wind. In other words I'd start up the engine and instead of driving right up on the hook take a swing of the wheel (pay out some more line if I have to and come up that way. I figure this would at least minumize the wind blowing me off the the anchor and maybe this would help the issue of my line getting jammed in the wheel.

5) I have a delta anchor on the boat and it never releases by itself. I often need to have someone kick it a bit to free it. This I think is the result of a poorly designed pulpit. I think (at least for delta anchors) there needs to be a hole in the pulpit center where the shaft of the anchor would come through. If this were the case the delta anchor would release under the force of gravity.

Anyway, I hope you all can share any experiences, or fixes you had to do with your anchoring set up. If you can also tell me what windlass and gypsy wheel you had that might help me too.

Cheers,

Brian

[Tuxedo]

I'll try a couple of answers. I have a Lemar Sprint 600, the low profile kind that has the motor below decks. Sounds like you have a Horizon 600, which has the motor above decks.

It takes a while for the rode to work its natural kinks out, and you'll get the tangling and hang-ups until it does. You could hassen the process by; 1) taking it all out and running it down the dock, getting the twists out on the way; 2) letting it all out, sitting on the hook for a while, and then retrieving it, several times; 3) tying a fender to the non-chain end, throwing it off the stern, and driving around.

How big a hole is the rode feeding through inside the pulpit? Is there a PCV pipe or some such it is falling through? The bigger, the better.

Even at that, hang-ups happen. Since I too have to have a crew member send the anchor on its way, I just have them watch as the rode feeds through.

I learned the hard way (new windlass) not to leave tension on the windless. Tie the anchor rode off on a clete, and when it's up, with an anchor stop or piece of line.

[Elizabeth Ann]

Thanks Tom. I guess one easy trhing to do would be to work out that rode. Dragging it behind the boat is a good idea - I may have to try that.

[chiefrcd]

I have a Muir Atlantic 1250. I'm not sure why they put so large a windless on a 28 footer, but I've had the same issues with it hanging up when you try to bring in the anchor line. I get lots of kinks and hockles. I removed the anchor line from the locker and stretched it down the dock. I also soaked it for about 12 hours in Downey Fabric softerner which I read somewhere in a boating forums. It seemed to work for a while. My next step is to try to put on some type of swivel. I've seen several types. It is aggravating to have to put someone up on the deck to pull the anchor line into the locker when you have a automatic system.

[Elizabeth Ann]

Thanks Chief!

[jgolm]

You asked about the windlass. I use a Good brand. I had one on my previous boat and love it.

Jgolm

[chiefrcd]

I ment to post this earlier but since the subject is back up I'll ask? Anyone here use Brait line? My understanding is that it eliminates the twist and hockles that come with using three strain twisted nylon. It's also suppost to be stronger and have more stretch. I've read some pretty positive things but have not talked with anyone who wants to pay that much for anchor rode.

[craw_daddy]

Some of the problem with the rode hanging up in the gypsy might be related to an import anchor line which compresses (i.e is softer) than a high quality U.S. made line. It may have hardened up after a season or two of usage, but it will likely measure smaller than originally spec'd. To check it out, do this: if it's 1/2" line, it shouldn't be very compressible, & you should just be able to slip a 1/2" box wrench over it. The cheaper imported lines will not measure up, & may cause the windlass system to foul..

Quality lines can be found at most boat stores, look for ones made in USA

[Elizabeth Ann]

That's good to know craw_daddy...Thanks!