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Oxidation

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rangoons
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Oxidation

Post by rangoons »

Image

Do I have a chance bringing this back?

Thanks
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chiefrcd
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Post by chiefrcd »

"SBCIH"

You might be the best candidate for one of those Poly Coat Products....at least in the short term. I can't imagine anything from a buffing stand point is going to work well over the letters.
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jcollins
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Post by jcollins »

Rangoons,
I'm in the same boat you are. (literally) I'm going to try the poly product. Already purchased it but I'm waiting to haul the boat. Take a look at Tuxedos pictures. He used it. It will give you a few years, then time to paint. Others prefer using compound and good wax. Either way, you'll have compound and possibly sand to get the oxidation cleaned up. Look through some of the old posts on the board.
Others will jump in here with suggestions too, I'm sure.
John
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rangoons
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Post by rangoons »

Thanks.
The letters are coming off during the winter to rename it. Does that change anything?
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Post by chiefrcd »

If you're removing the letters you could try to buff out the oxidation and then apply a good coat or two of hard wax. There are lots of articles on the internet about buffing and waxing fiberglass/gelcoat.....but the bottom line is it has to be done usually twice a year minimum....and depending on how bad it is, it still might not last. I used the poly coat on a fiberglass truck cap that was red faded to pink and it just wipes on. It lasted for me about 9 months and then needed a new coat. The poly looks great (wet) and I don't know how many times you can put it on before you have to remove it and start over. Obviously how shinny a boat is, is a matter between the owners desires and how much he/she is willing to work to keep it shinny. Dark color hulls are beautiful when they look good....and terrible when they don't. I've been told all my boating life that any color on a boat is good, as long as it's white. It is much easier to keep up. We have several boats in the marina that have been painted with algrip and the paint jobs look as good or better than the orginial gelcoat.
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Post by Tuxedo »

I guess since I have experience with the poli glow, I should add my 2 cents. I'd try to buff it out first. I had to go the poli glow or Algrip route since my boat was buffed twice a year for 6 years and had little gel coat left.

Your boat does not look nearly as bad as mine, which was a uniform dull grey when I gave up on the buffing.

You're up there in the frozen north where conditions shouldn't be as bad. Once a year might get the job done.
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Elizabeth Ann
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Post by Elizabeth Ann »

Guys,

I'm a little confused. Buffing a boat removes gel coat? Or are you talking about compounding? Even if you mean compounding, a friend of mine's father has a late '80s Mainship that he compounds and waxes every year. The guy is a complete fanatic about his boat and I learned a lot from him.

Here is the boat, my friend, and his old man. (Hopefully none of us here are intimidated by the viewing of another awesome boat builder ;))

Image
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Post by jcollins »

Always liked those Mainships.

By the way. If your renaming, don't forget the ceremony. The guy that bought my wifes boat renamed, without the cermony, and the transom fell off. (of course it was a 1969 outboard, rated at 110 hp with a 140 on it)
John
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Post by rangoons »

I found this post online. Has anyone heard of this method?

According to the messages, the chalking can be easily removed by chemical way. Phosphoric acid will be a solution. Please try. There is a product in US and in China made of Phosphoric acid for rust cleaning can remove the oxidation. Please try.

There is a small skill if you can not get this product easily, just buy 250 cc 75 or 85% phosphoric acid, mixed with 1.5 liter of water. Use it to brush on the chalking area. Hold for few minutes, clean with water. Most of the chalking will be removed. Use rag clean the rest. Please let me know the result.

Steve Milano Leong
Marine product importer - Macau, China
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Post by Russell »

I had a sailboat with a flag blue hull that faded after several years. It was heartbreaking to spend hours power buffing and waxing and then watch it revert to the same drab appearance within two months in the sun down here. So the best thing I ever did was to have it Awlgripped. No more waxing! It shined like a new boat year after year. And the Awlgrip is tougher than gelcoat against scuffs and scrapes.
Russ
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Post by rangoons »

Thanks Russell,
What is the difference between paint and allgrip?
Rangoons
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Post by rangoons »

Sorry,
Awlgripp
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Post by Russell »

Awlgrip is a two part polyester urethane finish. You may be able to apply it yourself but I would recommend using an experienced professional who can prepare the hull and spray it on. A newer version Awlgrip2 is supossed to be more scratch resistant and flexible but I had mine done before that was available. At the time it cost about 4 times what a professional wax job cost and I was told it would last at least 10 years. I got a larger boat and cannot confirm that longevity but it looked great for several years while I owned it. It is supposed to be difficult to repair but that was the chance I was willing to take.
Russ
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rangoons
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AGlaze

Post by rangoons »

Has anyone heard anything about this product?
http://www.marineaglaze.com/aglaze_marine.asp
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Post by Mariner »

Buffing shouldn't come anywhere near removing the gelcoat. My 1971 Boston Whaler has been buffed and waxed every year for it's entire life. The gelcoat is still all there.
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