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Front crank seal

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PJ Cruiser
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Front crank seal

Post by PJ Cruiser »

Has anyone changed a front crankshaft seal?
Wouldn't it be easier to pull the fuel tank, instead of the engine?
whwells
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by whwells »

What is your power plant?
Howard
PJ Cruiser
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by PJ Cruiser »

Thanks for the quick reply.
It's a 2003 Yanmar 6LP-STP 315 HP.
Would like to do this myself and looking for input from someone who has.
Paul
Last edited by PJ Cruiser on Sat Mar 04, 2017 9:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jeremyvmd
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by Jeremyvmd »

you a flush deck or a engine box? i know on the engine box model you would have to pull motor as there is a bulkhead between tank and motor...or at least there is on my boat
1989 Viking 45C “Knot Crazy”
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
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PJ Cruiser
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by PJ Cruiser »

It is an engine box. Ive had the fuel tank out before. There is a lot of access. I installed a removable bulkhead.
Jeremyvmd
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by Jeremyvmd »

Ahh well that changes things. My bulkhead is in there solid. I still vote remove motor rather than the tank...but that's me
1989 Viking 45C “Knot Crazy”
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
Native watercraft prostaff
PJ Cruiser
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by PJ Cruiser »

I can pump out fuel and remove tank in a few hours. It would seem like engine removal would be more involved. I ha.ve about 3 feet of working room without tank .Access is shown in attached oics.
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PJ Cruiser
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by PJ Cruiser »

Thinking outside the box.
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Jeremyvmd
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by Jeremyvmd »

My experience with boats is if you try and do it the "easy" rather than right way it will bite you. bildge is much cleaner than mine:p. Still trying to make up for the lack of cleaning by the PO
1989 Viking 45C “Knot Crazy”
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
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RobS
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by RobS »

I could have the engine out on an engine box model in not much more time than what you mention to get the tank out but of course you will need the lift out so that may or may not be readily available.

If you've already had your tank out, therefore all that is involved there is likely a-okay and does not need addressing. Removing the engine gives the opportunity to a lot more which may (or may not) need addressing: isolators, oil pan, shaft seal / shaft log / cutlass bearing, engine alignment, drive plate, timing belt, coolant pump...
Rob S.
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PJ Cruiser
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by PJ Cruiser »

I appreciate all the valuable input. It sounds as though consensus is, although it can be done without pulling, it is not the recommended route.

I will kick this around, and research having the engine pulled. My wife doesn't want any more on my plate anyway.

Ah, I always want my boat in my hands.

Thanks again for all the responses.
Paddy
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by Paddy »

Please post pics of the removable bulkhead, I like the idea of having options beyond pulling the engine for front end work. With the tank out, you should be fine.

Best of luck to you, hope you save a few bucks.

Rob
2004 28TE
PJ Cruiser
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by PJ Cruiser »

Although I have never removed an engine, this may be a better option if you are only working on the front of the engine. It would also be the only option if you don't have access to equipment for an engine pull.

I wish I had taken pics before putting it back together. Basically, you remove the middle section to the size you want. Cut plywood to the same size and thickness of the piece removed. Cut another piece of plywood six inches longer on each side(12 total). Fasten the center panel to the longer panel. Then attach to the remaining original bulkhead.

I had access to high strength composite panels, so I tapped the 1/2" thick one 1/4-20 for attaching my two panels, and made a stainless steel backing plates for going through the existing bulkhead. Flat head bolts were used to fasten from the engine side.This can be made from plywood using flat head bolts and nuts. If using plywood, you may want to install your flat heads from the tank side, and use all 1/2" for strength.

I took a pic this morning. I will attach that and my original print. The top view half circles are depicting the shape of the fuel tank.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Paul
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socalmike
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Re: Front crank seal

Post by socalmike »

Interesting. We had to replace our tank an ended up cutting it out. It must have went in prior to deck being put on the boat. The old tank was an inch wider than the hatch. New one fits right in.
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