Modifications, repairs and improvements, 28TE

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Norseman
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Tree wrote: Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:04 pm Could be the remaining 10 gallons isn’t being pumped out or the tank? I’ve never really looked at mine to see where the pick up is from. I assume it’s the top to reduce the chance of leaks?
I made a similar posting on the Farcebook Albin 28TE page and a Gentleman pointed out that the remaining 10 gallons, for a total of 36, are in the HOT WATER TANK.. :shock:
Duh, I stand corrected: In South Florida we never ever use the Hot Water Tank, it did not even cross my mind.
Yes of course we should use the aft deck shower only with the hot water.
(After it cools off and becomes lukewarm.)
My bad, I have owned and lived on numerous boats in the Caribbean and in South Florida, but none of these vessels had a Hot Water Tank.
My bad. :mrgreen:
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,250 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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Tree
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Ahh well. I’ve got a 40 gallon tank then since I upgraded my hot water for a bigger tank.

Gets cold here in the winter - one of these days I’ll plumb a radiator into the cabin.
Fisher Price 2
Hull Number AUL28489L900
Yanmar 6LP-STE
Built in Portsmouth RI, USA - Berthed in Portsmouth Hampshire, United Kingdom.
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Norseman
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Tree wrote: Wed Sep 15, 2021 4:21 pm Ahh well. I’ve got a 40 gallon tank then since I upgraded my hot water for a bigger tank.

Gets cold here in the winter - one of these days I’ll plumb a radiator into the cabin.
Ouch, you don’t pack the boat away for the winter and sit at home in front of the fireplace with a hot toddy? :shock:
I would.. :mrgreen:
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,250 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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Norseman
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Time for the annual coolant change:
For the newbies to this sport: The Yanmar needs DEXCOOL coolant, bright orange stuff mixed with distilled water. (I use reverse osmosis filtered water from kitchen)
The coolant drain on Starboard takes a 10 mm socket with 10-12” extension.
The Port side takes a 12 mm socket, no extension needed, easy access.
Almost impossible to get all the coolant out: I drain until it stops, then keep filling filtered water until everything comes out clear. (About 4-5 quarts)

After draining is complete and both drains closed I add 7-8 quarts of the 50/50 mix, then start the engine, add more coolant, stop the engine, wait :30 minutes the add more coolant etc. (air pockets) :shock:
If anybody knows where there is bleed screws for the cooling system, let me know..
68BA63DC-9B38-4C65-8417-E862654B2765.jpeg
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2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,250 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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Norseman
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Might as well do the Racor since I was in the neighborhood:
Hint to the newbies: Drain the bowl, check for water and sediments, then with the filter in place add clean fuel to eliminate air in the system and minimize bleeding.
6DEC7756-6F65-494D-9691-064BC4020807.jpeg
AD16BF51-E979-4DC8-9E74-67B492A75050.jpeg
)


(Pictures sideways again, any IT experts know how to fix that..Nancy?)
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2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,250 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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Norseman
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Changed the primary fuel filter as well as the water sensor.
Part numbers on the on the picture.

Same as the Racor: Fill up the filter with clean fuel before installing.
Even so the bleed pump took about 25-30 pumps to get the air out.
All good now.
4AFDDC7B-492C-4716-B82C-A80C290B139D.jpeg
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Nancy
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Norseman wrote: Tue Sep 28, 2021 4:20 pm (Pictures sideways again, any IT experts know how to fix that..Nancy?)
If it's any consolation, the photos are only sideways in the preview. If you click on them they open in the correct orientation. I've heard this is an iphone problem. Don't know if it happens all the time. I know next to nothing about iphones...not a fan.
Nancy
1995 Albin 28TE
Cummins 6BTA5.9 250
Nancy Lee
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Nancy wrote: Tue Sep 28, 2021 6:48 pm
Norseman wrote: Tue Sep 28, 2021 4:20 pm (Pictures sideways again, any IT experts know how to fix that..Nancy?)
If it's any consolation, the photos are only sideways in the preview. If you click on them they open in the correct orientation. I've heard this is an iphone problem. Don't know if it happens all the time. I know next to nothing about iphones...not a fan.
Aha, that is the problem?
I am glued to my iPad all day, never tried to post or view the AOF on my iPhone.
So the orientation is normal and right side up on a PC or an Android pad or phone?
:shock:
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,250 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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Norseman wrote: Tue Sep 28, 2021 8:58 pm Aha, that is the problem?
I am glued to my iPad all day, never tried to post or view the AOF on my iPhone.
So the orientation is normal and right side up on a PC or an Android pad or phone?
:shock:
I guess I should have said it's an i-whatever problem. Yes, orientation is correct on all the non-i-whatever stuff you mention.
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Norseman wrote: Tue Sep 28, 2021 3:36 pm Time for the annual coolant change:
For the newbies to this sport: The Yanmar needs DEXCOOL coolant, bright orange stuff mixed with distilled water. (I use reverse osmosis filtered water from kitchen)
The coolant drain on Starboard takes a 10 mm socket with 10-12” extension.
The Port side takes a 12 mm socket, no extension needed, easy access.
Almost impossible to get all the coolant out: I drain until it stops, then keep filling filtered water until everything comes out clear. (About 4-5 quarts)

After draining is complete and both drains closed I add 7-8 quarts of the 50/50 mix, then start the engine, add more coolant, stop the engine, wait :30 minutes the add more coolant etc. (air pockets) :shock:
If anybody knows where there is bleed screws for the cooling system, let me know..
68BA63DC-9B38-4C65-8417-E862654B2765.jpeg
Thanks! I need to do mine. I’ve been getting a low coolant alarm at low rpm’s but my coolant is topped off and my overflow bottle has coolant in it too. Is it a sensor I might need to replace?
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LillianpFD wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 9:54 am
Norseman wrote: Tue Sep 28, 2021 3:36 pm Time for the annual coolant change:
For the newbies to this sport: The Yanmar needs DEXCOOL coolant, bright orange stuff mixed with distilled water. (I use reverse osmosis filtered water from kitchen)
The coolant drain on Starboard takes a 10 mm socket with 10-12” extension.
The Port side takes a 12 mm socket, no extension needed, easy access.
Almost impossible to get all the coolant out: I drain until it stops, then keep filling filtered water until everything comes out clear. (About 4-5 quarts)

After draining is complete and both drains closed I add 7-8 quarts of the 50/50 mix, then start the engine, add more coolant, stop the engine, wait :30 minutes the add more coolant etc. (air pockets) :shock:
If anybody knows where there is bleed screws for the cooling system, let me know..
68BA63DC-9B38-4C65-8417-E862654B2765.jpeg
Thanks! I need to do mine. I’ve been getting a low coolant alarm at low rpm’s but my coolant is topped off and my overflow bottle has coolant in it too. Is it a sensor I might need to replace?
I am not aware of a Low Coolant Alarm on the Yanmar.
I know there is a raw water flow sensor that will wear out after 1100-1200 hours (on my boat anyways) and it will set of an alarm.
If your temperatures at cruise power are normal, then it is probably a sensor.
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,250 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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Tree
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Low coolant alarm is fitted just under the fresh water filler cap or certainly nearby from what I recall
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Hull Number AUL28489L900
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Tree wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 12:18 pm Low coolant alarm is fitted just under the fresh water filler cap or certainly nearby from what I recall
Yes, found it:

D3A32332-816A-4554-B1B0-D2A1D1411B26.jpeg
Probably this sensor:
64AF9F4B-CA40-44EB-89CB-9BC431645FF0.jpeg
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A few small projects:
We installed a new head, tank, hoses, valves, etc., including a tank sensor warning 7 months ago: Red light if the holding tank is 90 % full and the sensor and the logic will block half of the “Smart Panel” functions. (Raritan Technology)
No red light.
Raritan gave me a few trouble shooting ideas, no cigar, no red light.
Ok, bad sensor:
82DBFDB5-DD6B-4D19-9C74-E7CC76F62F2D.jpeg
See picture, sensor glued on to the tank.
Test by pushing a finger to the backside of the pad, no cigar, no red light.
Called contractor, he promised to bring new sensor:

Installed today, no cigar, no red light.
Possible wrong wiring on the Smart Box:
5746C93D-93CD-4363-B8A0-C35A1BF9854F.jpeg
On the phone with Raritan tech support now: Try to change the Ground Wife to a different position.

Bingo, the ground wire was in the wrong place.
Now we got a nice red light indication the holding tank is 90% full.
F2D019F0-34A1-42EC-92B8-14A687950A3D.jpeg
Also tried to calibrate the 18 gallon holding tank by filling it up with fresh water after a complete flush/empty:
Showing 17.3 gallons on the meter when the tank overflowed.
Close enough, a gallon left in the bottom of the tank.
AB51FC49-DA1A-4690-998F-7B359022C636.jpeg
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2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,250 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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Today was the annual oil change day.
Right at 125 hours, perfect.
Sending in a sample to Blackstone: Shell Rotella 15W-40, T4.
No oil added in 125 hours, no additives.
BB3BA815-53B0-4E36-A67B-62094CE9123C.jpeg
Question: Does anybody send in a tranny fluid sample for analysis?
(I don't) :shock:

Changed transmission fluid and filter as well, noticed the tranny dip stick had rubbed against something:
E3B651E9-2089-49F8-A3C0-DEA283E3A9BF.jpeg
Don't remember seeing that before, not good news, better get a new dip stick, so far I am looking @ $45 on eBay.
Will dig a bit deeper on the internet and see if a $15 dip stick is available.. :roll:
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2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,250 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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