Help me spec a new windlass

[Nancy]

Has anyone retrofitted a remote to an original Horizon windlass? I mostly singlehand and anchoring can be a pain as I run back and forth between the pulpit and wheelhouse.........

That's exactly what I wanted to do with the Horizon 500 windlass, but it didn't have a control box, so it didn't seem possible. Maybe we just weren't clever enough. Then again, it's just as well we didn't go that route because the old windlass kept slipping on the rope-chain splice. We'd re-done the splice, swapped rode end to end, got new rope. Still slipped. The new Lewmar is perfectly satisfied with my splice.

We installed a Lewmar Windlass Handheld Wired Remote, 68000599. I like that the wire keeps it from going kerplunk - that was just way to easy to visualize - and I like not making more holes in the deck (for foot switches).

[Bluewater]

Hmm - all good info. Really want to go with Coolchange’s $50 solution. I’m no longer sailing and anchoring in along the Biscay coast or in places like the Falklands so am not looking to buy a new windlass unless the old one falls off - and: (a) in the past ( as my wife will tell anyone who will listen) we have spent far too much money on boats; (b) I retired on a fixed income; and (c) have to compete with apparently critical capital expenditures such as plantation shutters ( and see (a) above). Thus thank you Coolchange....

[Nancy]

David, I hear you on all counts. If you're doing the work yourself, there's not much to lose by trying the $50 solution. I'll be very interested to know if it works.

Yes, the new Lewmar was a splurge, but it allows me to confidently anchor single-handed.

[Bluewater]

Nancy - will do.

[WillieC]

Bluechange, hilarious!

We give away perfectly good couches only to replace them with ridiculously expensive ones. Yeah, this income is fixed alright... (Don't tell the Starfleet Commander. I'm only exaggerating a little.)

[Norseman]

. critical capital expenditures such as plantation shutters

We did plantation shutters 2 months ago, Admiral is happy, now I can spend all I want on the boat.

[Bluewater]

Nancy - apologies - your sensible post has gone way off track - mea culpa.
I hate spending money on things that don’t float, eg houses, but living ashore its apparently necessary. Just peed’d off as spent many thousands on plantation shutters in previous house last year, and now many thousands more on the new house this year. OK - I’m at peace now - kinda, and I do want to stay married.......

[Nancy]

LOL at the multiple sets of shutters, David. No worries about the thread drift. I firmly maintain that hiring a mechanic (or a carpenter, electrician, plumber, painter, etc. for those pesky house projects) is way cheaper than a divorce.

[Bluewater]

CoolChange - I purchased the $49.99 windlass remote and today attached each of the 4 cables to the Simpson Lawrence windlass switch in the wheelhouse. Not so easy - tough to access and shortish existing cables.
Anyway, much sweat, complaining, and bad language later - all connected. 12v power back on and windlass switch works again just fine. But the remotes just click (in the white box, which I assume is a solenoid) but do not activate the windlass.
Hoping maybe you found a secret during your installation that you could share?
If not then there’s going to be considerably more complaining and bad language....

[samkopper]

I've reviewed the windlass thread going back a few years. Lots of great information and advice. I now know which machine to buy and I'm about to do that. BUT, I need more help, if anyone has experience with this specific situation.

My 1994 28TE has zero pre-wiring channels from midships to bow, as one member described on a later model. The forward compartment does have a very small pass-through for the running lights 12 volt wire. I have not yet dug real deep but, before I do, does anyone have any suggestions as to how to snake 2 8-gage wires into the forward anchor line compartment? Is there a cabling path on the port side running behind the galley? I sure can't see any obvious path on the starboard side. Do I have to remove bulkhead upholstery?

I'm concerned about an old Bert & I routine, "Can't the-ah from he-ah!"

Any other insights or caustions?

[Nancy]

On our '95, the wiring channel is on the starboard side of the cabin. The trim pieces have to be removed from the head, hanging locker, the cupboard at the dinette seating, etc. Let me know if you need a photo.

[Pitou]

Nancy hit the nail on the head. The horizontal cover boards running over the hull to deck joint is the cabling path. Some are cherry wood, but most are covered in the same material used on the cabin ceiling. Pop the cover caps off to access the screws that secure the cover boards.

[samkopper]

Perfect. Thank you. I had already popped the caps and pulled the screws on the forward panel just to see what was behind it...didn't help, but now I'll go to the starboard side. Thank you, Nancy and Kevin.

BTW - rum at whatever time of day...must be Mt Gay.