I have a 1996 Albin 28 TE with a 300 Peninsular with a Hurth marine gear. I have put 300 hours on her since I purchased her in September 2005. I have had good luck and performance with this setup, but I have had some of the same experiences that have been posted on this site. I can't believe it has taken me two and half years to find this website. It is great and I am glad to be a part of it now.
We live in Birmingham, Alabama and boat in the Pensacola, Florida and Orange Beach, Alabama area.
My winter time maintenance will involve changing the stuffing box to a dripless packing. I guess I am going to remove the engine. I can change any corroded fittings on the bottom of the engine and repaint the bilge while I have the engine out.
Travis
Sea Boxer
1996 Albin 28TE
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New Member: gtowens
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RicM
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1209
- Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:06 am
- Location: Wickford RI
- Contact:
Oil Change
Welcome to the site, it's a great place to learn about your boat. I am not that familiar with the Peninsular engine, but I know that if I was doing the work you are talking about I would definitely put an oil change system on the motor sump while I had access to it.
Ric Murray
Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
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Denis
- Gold Member
- Posts: 544
- Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:28 pm
- Location: Mystic, CT
Welcome to the site.
I have a 94 with the same engine and trans. you have. Last spring I had a mechanic re-pack the stuffing box and he said that you could put a dripless stuffing box in without removing the engine, he has done it. I know that doesn't help you down there but it can be done. Check some of the back posts pertaining to your year and model, there is a lot of very interesting stuff here. Denis
I have a 94 with the same engine and trans. you have. Last spring I had a mechanic re-pack the stuffing box and he said that you could put a dripless stuffing box in without removing the engine, he has done it. I know that doesn't help you down there but it can be done. Check some of the back posts pertaining to your year and model, there is a lot of very interesting stuff here. Denis
Former Owner of
1994 28'TE
"Red Stripe"
1994 28'TE
"Red Stripe"
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jcollins
- In Memorium
- Posts: 4927
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:05 pm
- Home Port: Baltimore
- Location: Seneca Creek Marina
- Contact:
-
Morning Star
Peninsular Engine Oil Change System
I saw Ric Murray's comment about the oil change system on the Peninsular diesels. Our boat is a 31TE with twin 340-HP Peninsulars.
When I looked at the oil drain/oil change system, I found it has an extended #6 hose about 20"long (capped off) and an elbow that comes out of the oil pan. The elbow is a std hyd fitting, which would have an ID of 3/16" max. To my way of thinking, this is way too small to get enough flow out of the oil pan to get contaminants out.
I've decided to go back to basics. I've had pans made up that will fit under the engines and fit the contour and shape of the bilge. I'm going to replace the entire drain system with a plug in the oil pan. When it's time to change oil, I'm going to pull the plug and dump into the pan, then pump out of the pan into a disposal container.
That way, it's easy for me to get an oil sample for analysis (really a worthwhile investment), and I'll get a chance to see what comes out of the engine in the way of chunks, filings, debris, etc., if any.
And, it's always really worthwhile to drain engine oil when it's really hot. That way, all the contaminants get flushed out of the engine.
If anyone would like photos of my custom oil drain pans, just let me know.
Peter Sampson
Morning Star
When I looked at the oil drain/oil change system, I found it has an extended #6 hose about 20"long (capped off) and an elbow that comes out of the oil pan. The elbow is a std hyd fitting, which would have an ID of 3/16" max. To my way of thinking, this is way too small to get enough flow out of the oil pan to get contaminants out.
I've decided to go back to basics. I've had pans made up that will fit under the engines and fit the contour and shape of the bilge. I'm going to replace the entire drain system with a plug in the oil pan. When it's time to change oil, I'm going to pull the plug and dump into the pan, then pump out of the pan into a disposal container.
That way, it's easy for me to get an oil sample for analysis (really a worthwhile investment), and I'll get a chance to see what comes out of the engine in the way of chunks, filings, debris, etc., if any.
And, it's always really worthwhile to drain engine oil when it's really hot. That way, all the contaminants get flushed out of the engine.
If anyone would like photos of my custom oil drain pans, just let me know.
Peter Sampson
Morning Star
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RicM
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1209
- Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:06 am
- Location: Wickford RI
- Contact:
Oil Change
On my engine (Yanmar) the drain plug is not really an option as far as I can see, so my point is that if you are going to have the engine out you may want to think about putting a system in. I know my nature, and I tend to do the maintanence in a more timely fashion if it's convenient and I don't have a mess to clean up after. Peter, with the pan setup don't you end up with a fair amount of oil left in the pans? Doesn't it smell when the engines heat up?
Just curious.
Just curious.
Ric Murray
Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
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Morning Star
Engine Oil Drain
Hi Ric -
I agree with everything you said. Plus, when one pulls the plug, there's a significant burst of hot oil that has to be controlled; another downside.
The oil that would remain in the collector pan would have to be mopped up in some fashion, probably with a rag and some solvent. Again, another negative, but in my mind all the valid negatives noted are more than offset by the ability to completely drain the sludge from the bottom of the engine oil pan.
Thx for the comments,
Peter Sampson
Morning Star
I agree with everything you said. Plus, when one pulls the plug, there's a significant burst of hot oil that has to be controlled; another downside.
The oil that would remain in the collector pan would have to be mopped up in some fashion, probably with a rag and some solvent. Again, another negative, but in my mind all the valid negatives noted are more than offset by the ability to completely drain the sludge from the bottom of the engine oil pan.
Thx for the comments,
Peter Sampson
Morning Star
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Mariner
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1447
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:18 am
- Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Note that if your engine is still under any sort of warranty, installing a drain plug will void it. But if you do this, be sure that you completely remove the oil pan from the engine to do the installation, so as to ensure that no metal fragments remain, and that your plug will clear the internals when it's operating.